How To: Hunterworks Secondary Roller Install

Back in 2014 when the Polaris XP 1000 was introduced, the secondary clutch used a round roller. Owners started complaining of the rollers flat spotting and causing issues, so in 2016 Polaris changed the design and started using flat rollers instead. An unintended consequence of this change is that it created a more expensive problem. It started wearing the aluminum secondary itself.

Enter Hunterworks out of Collinsville, MS with a solution.

Hunterworks experimented with many different materials to come up with a solution for the problems that plagued the 14-15 model year Polaris UTVs. They adapted that design into a larger round roller that fits the opening of the flat sliding design in the 2016+ models. Installation is fairly simple with the correct tools and will save you a ton of money in the long run. Different models will have very slight differences, but the overall installation is pretty much the same.

First you need to remove your clutch cover. It helps to remove the clutch vent tubes and get them out of the way as well. The clutch cover screws and hose clamps are all 8mm. If you want to remove the frame clamp to completely move the tube, that bolt is 10mm. Remove the 15mm bolt holding the secondary on and the clutch should come out. If it does not, we’ve found that partially threading it back into place and giving the bolt head a few taps with a deadblow will help break it loose.

We removed both the primary and secondary in this image since we were doing some additional clutch work. For this project you only need to remove the larger secondary clutch.

Once the secondary is removed, place your secondary on your work bench and use a clutch compression tool to put some pressure to keep the spring from popping out. The helix has a spring that will become a dangerous projectile. Don’t remove it without a way to retain this.

Also, on the back of your secondary you will see two molded “X” marks on the secondary. Theses clutches are balanced from the factory and must be put back together in the same position, so be sure to note and mark the locations for later re-assembly.

Depending on your model, there will be four or five T25 torx bolts with lock-tite holding it in. You must apply heat to the bolts to minimize the risk of stripping out the torx heads. After removing the bolts, release the pressure on the spring with your clutch compression tool.

Simple propane heat will work to counter the lock-tite.
The T25 torx bit used here is a Dewalt FlexTorq. See more information at the end of this article on why we prefer these versus traditional bits.
Slowly back off the clutch compression tool and remove the helix.

Once the spring and helix are removed, you will next want to knock through the two roll pins on the inside of the clutch with a 1/8″ punch. You don’t have to remove them completely, just enough to be able to pull out the roller retainers. Be sure to contain your work area so that you don’t lose these pins if you do knock them all the way through. They will be re-used. Once they’re out of the way, rotate the roller retainer back and forth while pulling to remove the factory flat slider.

There are two roll pins that need to be knocked out.
Drive the roll pin through with the 1/8″ punch.
Use a tool that will allow you to get a good grip on the roller retainer. These are usually on pretty tight, but will come out with some wiggling back and forth.

Once the retainers are out, simply slide the old roller off and put the new round rollers on. With the roller retainers out, the clutch sheaves can be separated and it is a great time to clean the clutch as good as possible, remove any residues and lightly scuff the aluminum belt contact surface with a fine grit abrasive pad. Do not use any grease or oils on the clutches!

Notice the flat spot on the roller retainer. This will need to be pointed up when re-installing.
Clean and scuff the belt contact surface.

Finally, re-install the new rollers, put the roll pins back in place, tighten down the spring and helix and lock-tite the T25 torx bolts and put back on to your machine and you’re done!

Tap the roll pin back into place.
Finished product.

We want to tell a little more about our side note on the type of torx bits we ended up using on this. Our traditional torx bit broke when attempting to remove the torx bolts. We were fortunate that we didn’t have to drill it out. We simply used a little heat and the broken off part fell out. We’ve discovered that the hardened traditional bits can be too brittle for jobs like this one, especially the smaller sized ones. Dewalt and a couple of other companies make the FlexTorq bits for jobs that are likely to break other bits. We highly recommend them.

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Chris Holland was born and raised in Mount Sterling, KY and is the publisher of UTV Revolution. He has an award winning background in the journalism field, winning multiple accolades in sports writing, editorials and photography. He is also a driver in the Ultra 4, Pro Rock/Pro UTV and SRRS racing series. His first taste of going offroad was with his dad's 1979 CJ-7 when he was five years old and has been hooked ever since. After years of trail riding and technical rock crawling, he finally got the go fast bug and entered the racing scene. While he still has a great passion for full size rigs and rock crawling, he says there is nothing like the adrenaline rush you get from the speed and capabilities of UTVs.

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